11/8/2022 0 Comments Free munsell conversion software![]() It might also be possible to simulate ortho film if you as well as using what the computer can provide also do some other adjustments to take into account how different materials reflect ultra-violet. I think it's theoretically possible, with a lot (ie using at least few dozen photos) of work, to get some sort of table of grey values and possible original colours (providing you have some photos where you know what's going on to use as a control). However, that doesn't mean that I don't think you can do useful work using one. You can enhance information using a computer, but once it's gone you can't bring it back. Things such as vegetation, wood, metal and so on often have different reflective characteristics - which is why these wavelengths (and infrared, as this isn't absorbed by the atmosphere as much) are used in a lot of satellite imaging.All this adds to up to the fact that is impossible to go from an ortho b&w print and confidently say what colour the original was. ![]() Note that the blue end of the graph isn't at the bottom - in fact ortho film is sensitive to ultraviolet light, which we can't see using the naked eye. Don't forget that the graph is only a representitive one, two films (particularly from different sources) may have quite different sensitivities.There is one other very important thing that is very hard to account for. Note also that the sensitivity isn't a straight line - this means that the relative difference between the brightness of the final print relative to the original view depends not only on the original colours but also on exposure (and development) time. Well if you want some scientific detail here's a graph that might help, from the motion picture film part of kodak's site:Take a look at the graph of the ortho film and you will see that it is not very sensitive to red light, which means that a red object will look very much darker on the final print that a blue object. ![]() It's not like a black-and-white photo is freeze-dried color: Just add Methuen, Photoshop, or water and.Again, once the wavelength information has been stripped out, it be gone.:'(Empathetically,Stefen. Mark wrote:'Here in order of darkest to lightest are the values I got off the photo matched to their color:1 blue-green, 2 ocher, 3 green, 4 purple, 5 blueAm I the only one flabbergasted by this? Ocher is the second darkest colorOnly thing I expected was that blue-green would be the darkest – But all the rest run against conventional wisdom.' What is it in conventional wisdom that makes this result unexpected and flabbergasting?' HiEver since I found that Munsell converter I’ve been on a quest to get some kind of idea what the “right” colors are for the 5 color lozenge scheme. The latter has the advantange of translating across the real-world and virtual domains.VBR to all,Stefen. I would appreciate more information from someone better informed on this subject.Nonetheless, I think the use of the Methuen descriptors has been rather less than more helpful in the field of WWI aviation archaelogy, and it would have been better to have standardized on Munsell notation, or to have made use more widely available swatch collections such as Pantone. ![]()
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